The Legacy of Carnac Bunder and Beyond
Mumbai’s iconic Carnac Bunder, once an integral part of the city’s bustling commercial core, is poised to re-emerge as a cultural and historical nexus with the reopening of its reconstructed road-over-bridge. The area, which was once the beating heart of Mumbai’s dockyards, has witnessed numerous historic events, making it a significant part of the city’s collective memory.
The refurbished bridge will once again restore the intersection’s vibrancy, reintegrating it into Mumbai’s fast-paced urban landscape. Carnac Bunder has long been home to cultural landmarks, notably the Elphinstone Hotel, which holds a controversial place in history as the place where Nathuram Godse, the assassin of Mahatma Gandhi, is believed to have stayed. The junction also served as the backdrop for powerful trade union leaders, including George Fernandes, P. D’Mello, and Manohar Kotwal, who addressed thousands of dock workers during the height of Mumbai’s industrial activity. These interactions at the junction played a pivotal role in shaping the city’s labour politics.
Close by, the legacy of local eateries still holds sway. The Kaiser-e-Hind restaurant, known for its quaint charm, and Balgi Hotel, tucked away in a narrow lane, continue to delight patrons with local dishes such as aloo palak, chana masala, and tandoori roti. Yellow Gate Bar remains a prominent evening meeting point, while the nearby Masjid Station offers a delicious treat of garam moong bhajias. Further reflecting Mumbai’s unique blend of history and contemporary culture, a recent vintage car rally also took off from the Western India Automobile Association, Churchgate. The rally, comprising 21 classic cars from the UK and other countries, will cover an expansive 6,000 kilometres over 20 days, celebrating both the city’s rich automotive history and its ongoing cultural relevance. On a different note, Mumbai also pays homage to its golden age of cinema, with the 100th birth anniversary of Raj Kapoor continuing to resonate among his fans. Last weekend, Dr Prakash Joshi, a passionate advocate for vintage music, hosted an evocative evening of songs from Kapoor’s films at the Asiatic Library, taking the audience back to a time when melody was the soul of Hindi cinema.
The evening was a moving tribute to the legendary showman, despite the fact that his RK Studio museum, once located in Chembur, was shut down after its sale to the Godrej Group. However, not all historic institutions in the city are faring well. The National Sports Club of India (NSCI), a longstanding cultural and sports institution at Worli, has been embroiled in an internal dispute that has affected its reputation. The club, famous for its spacious grounds and excellent Chinese cuisine, is now facing factional disputes, with serious allegations between rival groups. This discord has raised concerns about the future of the club, which has an equally significant presence in Delhi. As Mumbai continues to modernise, these historic landmarks offer a reminder of the city’s rich heritage. Yet, they also highlight the challenges of preserving Mumbai’s identity amid rapid urbanisation.
